'From a yacht at sea on a blinding summer's afternoon, the dizzy wall of terraced vines and lemon groves, the tiny white houses and the
purple
bougainvillea, the perfect fingernails of beach below, all lull you into a timeless present. Yet a thousand years ago, today's toy town was the hub
of
the known world.' -Peter Robb, novelist
Peter Robb knew what he was talking about. Yet some who visit the Amalfi Coast compare it to the Pacific Coast along California. I can tell
you, with
complete and absolute authority, that the most celebrated strip of the Mediterranean Coast is no comparison whatsoever.
Nowhere on the planet do such natural jewel-toned hues shine as they do along the Amalfi Coast, which has always enticed visitors for
extended vacations
and long, lazy drives up and down the aging, sunny coastline. Villages of varying age and style dot the coast and entice even the most lethargic
tourists to stop and take a walk along the quaint, historic streets. It is in these villages you fine Italy's real treasures: untainted art,
intensely
flavorful cuisine of the highest caliber and historic, unspoiled churches and monasteries.
A drive along the coast will make you feel like you've discovered the seven wonders of the world - all in one place. You'll step through
fresh soils
that emit the smell of plentiful earth and the essence of nearby citrus groves. You'll drive along a coast that rises hundreds of feet above the
glittering turquoise waters, clear to the bottom. Sandy beaches beckon to drivers so loudly they'll swear cliff diving is their destiny. Tiny
islands
are seen from every curve and brightly colored cottages line the way to the small harbors of each village.
If you want to road trip up or down the Coast, the best place to start is Vietri. If you rent a car, the convertible is the only way to go.
If you're a
bit more daring, a motorcycle is an excellent way to make the trip - and a sleek black-and-chrome two-wheeler or speedy red Vespa will come in
handy
on those slim roads and tight curves. If you'd like to leave the driving to someone else and wish to head towards Pompeii, Herculaneum or Naples,
the SITA (a public bus system) can take you to Sorrento. From there, the local train (called a Circumvesuviana) will carry you to your final
destination.
After you've attained your ideal transportation, get the camera ready and make your way to the Coast Road entrance. This road, deemed the
'Coast Road
by locals in the early 1900s,' was opened in the eighteenth century by King Ferdinand II to create passage for his royal carriage and extensive
entourage. Legend holds that Ferdinand chose to open the road along the Coast to view peasants milling the pristine white villages, simple yet
majestic
community churches and the fragrant groves that line the countryside, still swollen even today with tart yellow lemons. Amazingly, the Coast is so
well preserved that tourists today can see many of the same things that Ferdinand once loved.
On your way to Positano, you'll find hidden coves filled with elderly Italian fisherman and frequent glimpses of Bougainvillea-draped
terraces worthy
of Michelangelo's paintbrush. An example is La Costiera, captured forevermore on the raw canvases of a hundred artists. The first glimpse is always
a profound and emotional experience, no matter how hard or experienced the heart. Amazingly enough, the views grow more fantastic as you go.
Must-do activities for tourists in Amalfi, Furore, Praiano and Ravello
Courtesy of DolceVita.
Marine Republic Palio: A unique opportunity to watch the horse-racing teams of all four Repubbliche Marinare in action. The Palio, held at
the beginning
of June each year, rotates from one city to another and is always preceded by elaborate processions by characters in period costume.
Summer concerts: Mystic melodies and atmosphere fill the Chiostro del Paradiso on summer classical concert nights. Program details available
from the
local tourist authority.
Amalfi by night: The impressive night club L'Africana and the lighted beach of the Il Pirata disco are integral parts of Positano's night
life.
The Emerald Grotto: One of the most famous and most visited caves in the area, its name refers to the color assumed by the cave's waters due
to a
subaquatic aperture.
The Ravello-Minori Walk: Walking along the Via Roma, you'll begin one of the loveliest walks to be had in Ravello, winding your way down to
Minori
between cottages and archways, terraced fields and the sea. As the whole way is a rather steep incline, it advisable to walk down from Ravello to
Minori, and not vice versa. Once arriving in Minori, there are buses to carry you back to Ravello.
The Ravello Music Festival: In May 1880, Richard Wagner spent a good deal of time in Ravello. He was so stricken with the beauty and
rarefied atmosphere
of Villa Rufolo, it became the garden of Klingsor in 'Parsifal'. Even today, it's easy to lose oneself in romanticism, soaking up the magic of this
garden seemingly afloat at sea. Each summer, the miracle which so fascinated the German composer returns with the Festival Musicale di Ravello, one
of
the most famous in Italy.
For your convenience, we've offered a partial listing of vibrant festivals that dot the Amalfi Coast each year. For exact dates, check the
Italian
tourism office of the province you wish to visit.
JANUARY
Festival of St. Sebastian
FEBRUARY
Historical Parade and Pageant (Ponte)
Carnival Parade and Cheese Festival (Pontelandolfo)
Historical Carnival Parade (S. Agata dei Goti).
Costumed Races and Sports Meets (Avellino).
MAY
Blood Miracle Festival of San Gennaro (Naples; 1st Saturday in May)
JUNE
Historical Regatta (Amalfi; June, every four years - 2009 is the next)
JULY
Festival of the Madonna of the Graces (Benevento)
AUGUST
Wheat Harvest Festival (Foglianise)
Banner Pageant for the Assumption (Pozzuoli)
SEPTEMBER
Blood Miracle Festival of San Gennaro (Naples; 1st Saturday in September)
OCTOBER
International Hot Air Balloon Pageant (Fragneto Monforte)
For Italian tourist office contact information, check the Complete Italy Tourist
Office Directory
This article was written by staff writer Sabrina Friedman. | | |
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